Designers from Gucci to Marc Jacobs revive the '90s icon's minimalist uniform of pencil skirts, oversized shirts, and undone hair.
A particular figure kept appearing on runways this season: tall, slender, with flyaway blonde strands framing her face. She wore the hallmarks of a '90s cool-girl wardrobe—an oversized white button-down, a tan pencil skirt, chunky boots, perhaps a strapless dress—gazing at cameras with a look both resolute and guarded.
The clear inspiration was Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, whose understated elegance has long captivated Ivy League art history students and vintage slip-dress enthusiasts. Now, with the television success of *Love Story* and the breakout performance of its young star Sarah Pidgeon, Bessette Kennedy's aesthetic influence is experiencing a fresh surge.
Runway homages and how to wear them now
Beige pencil skirts emerged as an unexpected standout. Bessette Kennedy owned a Prada version from 1996, and the silhouette dominated in Milan, where Demna incorporated it into Gucci's collection on model Karlie Kloss. Marc Jacobs offered a New York interpretation, combining the skirt with a bright aqua sweater while maintaining the signature tousled hair and substantial boots.
Bessette Kennedy famously wore her pencil skirt to a 1998 Municipal Art Society benefit with long black opera gloves. Richard Quinn recreated this pairing in London, substituting white gloves, while Michael Kors introduced a high slit in his version, shown at the Metropolitan Opera—mere blocks from where the original look debuted.
Her vintage leopard-print faux fur jacket, which grazed the knee and followed the body's line, demonstrated how a statement coat transforms everyday pieces. The original sold at Sotheby's last December for $33,600, making the runway interpretations from Marni and Willy Chavarria comparatively accessible.
The oversized white shirt came from Yohji Yamamoto's menswear line. Contemporary labels TWP and Gap now produce similar silhouettes for women. At Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi, designers styled them with sleek black skirts in direct reference to Bessette Kennedy. For lace versions, layering a simple black slip underneath preserves the texture while offering coverage.
Her distinctive blonde hair proved so essential that *Love Story*'s creative team re-dyed Pidgeon's hair following complaints that the initial color was excessively yellow. Those preferring darker shades can still adopt her relaxed ponytail approach. Prada, Jil Sander, The Row, and Hermès all featured the style, with Dior's loose, low ponies by hairstylist Guido Palau coming closest to the original.